Tutorial for the Best Choice of Roscated Suspensions
The time to change the suspensions of our car, it can become a difficult decision to make because there is too much information about it, especially if we search on the internet, far from helping us we can get to saturate of the information we can get to find on the internet forums, there are many brands on the market and all assure to be the best, there are many prices, many versions and many opinions about it.
This tutorial does not intend to be an absolute guide for the user since the most appropriate choice of a suspension is always conditioned by the user's driving habits, the power of the car, the level of preparation if there is, the needs and real use and ultimately always recommended the advice of an expert technician in the subject.
Although it’s not always easy to fit in the choice, we’ll give a number of guidelines and tips so that your choice is the most right as possible.
Use the common sense
Although it seems absurd the best advice we can give is to use common sense and logic.Considering variables such as the power of your car, the needs you have, the type of driving/habit you have and your budget, focus your decision towards reasonable and common sense solutions.
What do we mean by reasonable and common sense solutions?
Because it’s very easy, the first thing to do is a bit of self-analysis to go discarding options.Once you dischart what you don’t need for removal you’ll be staying with a few real options, we put you several examples:
The budget we have is decisive in our choice.In the market there are rosked suspendments from a little less than 200 euros to 10,000 euros.
If we use a little logic we will all agree that the extremes will not be the most suitable in the vast majority of scenarios.Therefore, we could establish a kind of division in three large sections taking into account their prices and benefits
Class 1 - Also known as what we call low cost or cheap tuning.
In this class we can include all those rosked suspensions whose PVP price enters in an interval of 150 - 40by 0 eur.
CLASS 2 - Most well-known brands in the market place their average price between 400 and 1000 euros for medium gums for mixed daily use on the street.
CLASS 3 - In this division we could include all those high-end and high-performance sports applications that exceed the 1000 euros.
As we have said about these lines, we have to use a little common sense to discard options that are not worth us, let’s put 3 examples in 3 different scenarios.
If you have a utility with less than 100 cv, it is very likely that the intended use is for everyday use, transfer to work, purchases, short urban shifts, etc.Most users who acquire a car of these features is because their priority is the consumption economy, the average profile of this user is to improve the car performance a little bit, especially when the original suspensions are already very tired, and since they have to change because then you compare prices with other options.
Most of the time if it’s about restoring the original behavior that has been lost with the use and time and in addition you want a plus of improvement in dynamic behavior the best choice is a class 1 suspension, mounting a higher suspension will not bring us much more except spending a money that we won’t get a lot of advantage.
Original OEM suspensions are not usually a good option in general if we want to improve dynamic behavior, the original piece is usually standard quality, amortisers are usually just hydraulic or as much low-pressure gas to prioritize walking comfort and the price is usually high compared to other options.
Brands that fit in class 1
Examples of brands that can be included in class 1 would be; Tuning Art, The Technix Blue Series and The Technix Red Series, By Jim Coilovers, High Tech, High Tech and other similar under the name of numerous brands that can be found on e-commerce portals and platforms such as Ebay, Amazon, Ali Express, etc
This product niche is usually low-cost basic range whose manufacturers and sellers seek to compete in price on all these trading portals.To make the product attractive enough in price to capture the low cost collective there is only one solution; Chinese manufacturers.
All suspensions that may be found on Ebay-type platforms at prices below 300 euros almost secure that have been manufactured in China.
Not always associate Made in China with poor qualityalthough it happens most often, it is not always so.The Chinese are excellent replicators, they are characterized by having little original creativity but copying are the best.They can replicate objects in an accurate way but using various qualities (bad, normal or high) depending on the price that the merchant trades.
Use the common sense, no one gives euros to 90 cents (or hard to 4 pets as it was said before) A suspension of 150-200 euros cannot give a good result when the average price is rounding by the 600 euros.
If what you want is to lower the height of the carrossery and put it harder without taking into account the dynamic behavior, the overall final result and the duration then forward.If you are minimally demanding with the car on the road or you enter circuit tandas, the suspensions already have a timely expiry date.
It should also be noted that these low-cost suspensions are not usually adjustable in hardness, only in height.Thus you welcome the predefined fixed tarat that the manufacturer has designed for each application.Whether it seems hard as it seems soft, that’s what it is.There is no possibility to harden it and the seller will not admit claims on subjective criteria of hardness.
There is a very widespread urban legend among tuning users belonging to the collective "If it doesn't roast it doesn't mole,", “the more it falls, the harder the suspension is put.”.
This is an erroneous belief, these users usually lower the height of the suspensions to the minimum top to the limit that between the tyre and the wing does not have a finger, and even if the wheel is hiding inside, then even better.
In the following figure we can see the behavior of the amortisator in 3 positions:
1 - Removed from the car, in full rest
2 - Installed in the car keeping the original height that comes out in the technical file
3 - Mounted in the car and lowered the mould height to the maximum
In position 1 we can see the race that remains in the compression phase that is all the amplitude or effective race
In position 2 we can see the races that are available for the compression phase and for the extension phase (total effective race = compression race + extension race)
The position 3 represents a suspension with the carrossery down to the top (planked on the ground), as it is hard to observe, the race that remains in compression is minimal.That means that at the time we pass above a bush by not having sufficient compression course so that the mole can be compressed, the amortizer reaches the top by acting the elastic security top and rebooting the suspension violently.
This sensation of hardness is a false sensation that the user perceives as hardness of the amortizator when it is actually a violent reboot of the elastic top.If this continuous martile is continuously prolonged then it gets to deteriorate the top and disintegrates, then if there is no elastic security top the piston touches the bottom of the amortisator making a very obvious blow noise.In a few kilometers the amortisator will reverse making it evident a loss of external oil.